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<> Bluegills are one of the most common game fish found in the USA. Although primarily thought of as a pond and small lake fish, they are also abundant in natural lakes, large border rivers, and reservoirs. Bluegills are closely related to largemouth bass, and as you might expect, anywhere there are bass there is an excellent chance bluegills will be present.
Angler opinion polls conducted by the Department in the last decade have shown bluegills are one of the more popular fish. Not only is it a favorite, but its popularity has been steadily increasing until it currently ranks third in preference. Bluegills are moving towards the top of popularity charts for several reasons. They are quite easily caught, take great varieties of baits, are not particularly wary, are forgiving of a less than perfect fishing technique, fight very well for their size are exceptionally fine eating, and are extremely abundant in many ponds and lakes. In addition, bluegill can be caught with just about any tackle, from a simple cane pole to a sophisticated and expensive graphite flyrod. All of these reasons extend bluegill as a popular angling fish, but the major factor is abundance, for bluegill harvest is not limited by daily bag or size limits. Finally, and most importantly, bluegill are just plain fun to catch.
Catching bluegills is easy, but consistent catches of larger fish are more difficult. Large fish are not found in every body of water; therefore, it is important to locate ponds and lakes that contain bigger fish. You can find water with keeper bluegills by asking other anglers, conservation officers, area fisheries biologists, state and county park rangers, pond owners, or for that matter anyone that is familiar with the body of water in question. Don't be shy in asking for information; most anglers like to add a little spice to their reputation.
After finding waters that are known to harbor keepers, consistent catches will depend on your knowledge of the location and seasonal habits of the fish. Bluegill are not randomly distributed in a lake, but rather they concentrate into specific habitats, depending upon the season. To be successful you must learn to locate these concentrations of fish. The fact you caught fish in one area in the spring does not mean you will catch them in that location in mid-summer. In fact, the opposite is probably true; it would be surprising to find bluegill in the same location during two different seasons.
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Late Summer Fishing
As the season progresses, small bluegill hatch and move away to feed. The adult male then abandons the nest to travel to deeper water for the summer. Many bluegill will spawn only once each season, but in waters not limited by overcrowding, some fish move back into the shallows in the late summer to spawn a second time. It often is rewarding to check spawn sites again during the summer for these multi-spawners.
Large river bluegill spend their summer in deeper water and congregate along undercut banks often favoring old, fallen trees. High water in spring-time and currents scour holes near the bank, often exposing a tangle of roots and other snags. The edge of lilly pads or other aquatic vegetation can also produce good catches of fiesty bluegills.
Bluegill living in lakes, reservoirs, and ponds also move to deeper water during the hot days of summer. They can be found along the edges of weeds or in deep coves. Many times they are on humps or areas that break into flooded creek channels or other deep water. Summer-time bluegill, especially the bigger ones, are usually found at depths ranging from 10 to 12 feet. There they suspend just above the thermocline. Man-made underwater objects also attract bluegill during the summer. Many lakes and reservoirs contain stake beds, brush shelters, tire reefs, and other fish attractors that have been placed in the water. These objects, in addition to boat docks or boats tied at one spot for several days, are productive hangouts for bluegill.
To catch mid-summer bluegill, fish your favorite bait or lure in areas you think might concentrate the fish. On the Mississippi try the 10-foot water along undercut banks or near aquatic vegetation that crowds backwaters and near sunken trees. Working undercuts during summer is best accomplished from downstream. Cast upstream and allow the current to move your bait or lure through target habitat. Allowing the bait to move naturally is the key. It's best to use natural bait, even when fishing jigs, because the line often goes slack because of the current. The tasty natural bait makes the fish hold on until the slack is eliminated and you can feel the fish on the line.
In lakes, reservoirs, and ponds try live bait or small lures near the edges of weed beds, submerged extensions of shoreline points, humps or flats dropping into creek channels. Fish often suspend over deep water where they can be taken by drift fishing. Drift your boat with the wind allowing the bait or lure to be suspended at 10 to 15 feet. Repeat drifts over areas that are productive.
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General Guidelines for Bluegill Fishing
There are several basic bluegill fishing principles which should be adhered to if consistent success is to be had. Foremost, fish where the fish are living. This may seem obvious, but it is surprising how many anglers simply walk down the shoreline, cast out, and never give a thought to the seasonal habits of the fish they're after. Make use of your knowledge of seasonal changes in bluegill habits and your success will improve. Take note of the locations that produce catches because these places will be good from year to year.
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Tackle
It definitely pays to use light line and tackle when bluegill fishing. Not only do you catch more fish, but also you have more fun with light tackle. Many serious bluegill fishermen use ultra-lite graphite spinning rods and tiny reels loaded with 2 or 4 pound-test monofiliament line to pursue their quarry. Bluegill feed mainly on aquatic insects, which are slow-moving creatures. Rarely will a bluegill chase food items; therefore, it's important to fish very slowly. This is true whether you use artificial lures or live bait. Finally, there is practically no such thing as a lone bluegill. Once you catch one, quickly cover the area again and take as many as possible before moving to the next spot.
Suitable bluegill fishing equipment comes in many forms. Perhaps the oldest fishing gear used for bluegill is a cane pole and a can of worms. This simple implement of by-gone days has been largely replaced with modern spinning and spin-cast rods and reels. Rarely does one see a cane pole in use today. Most have been lost, broken, or regulated to garage rafters. The cane pole is effective, however, and may be just what the doctor ordered, especially for small children unable to master a rod and reel.
Modern fiberglass and graphite rods with spinning or spin-cast reels are the gear of choice by most bluegill anglers. The great advantage of this equipment is the a wide choice of baits and techniques can be used, all within reasonable cost.
Although artificial lures are most often thought of in partnership with spinning gear, these outfits can also be used effectively with live or natural bait. The perennial favorite live bait is the fishworm. Whether it be a nightcrawler stalked with a flashlight in the back yard, garden worms dug from a manure pile, or red wigglers purchased from a bait shop, all serve as effective baits for bluegills. Most fishermen use small bobblers when fishing worms, but all live bait can also be fished on the bottom with success. Lowering your bait over the side of the boat or making short casts with a slow retrieve are also tried and proven techniques. A soft touch is required when not using a float to feel a bite and set the hook. Other live baits suitable for bluegill include grasshoppers, crickets, catalpa worms, or about any insect large enough to put on a hook - most bluegill are not particularly shy about forage.
Bluegills have small mouths and a small hook is essential--sizes 6 or 8 seems best. Hooks with long shanks are easier to remove from the small mouth, especially if the bait is swallowed. Thin wire hooks are the choice with live bait because the bait will stay alive longer and will be more enticing to fish as it squirms on the hook.
Artificial baits suitable for catching bluegill are numerous. Thirty-second and sixty-fourth ounce leadhead jigs, although tough to cast with anything but ultra-lite gear, are exceptional bluegill catchers. Leadheads tipped with marabou feathers, rubber grubs, or twister tails all work well. A small piece of worm or maggot attached to the lure will often increase bites when the fish are exceptionally choosy. All colors catch bluegill, but black is preferred by the most ardent 'gill fishermen. Tiny spinner-baits, spinners, and weighted flies can be used with spinning gear to catch big bluegill. Fish these baits as slowly as possible for best results. Dry flies and small poppers can be used with a spinning rod if a small float is attached about 4 feet from the lure. Long casts with a jerky or twitching retrieve will take bluegill when they are feeding on the surface.
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Fly Fishing
A fisherman using a flyrod is a rare sight today on most Iowa waters. Often thought of as a technique to catch trout, a flyrod is an excellent piece of equipment for catching bluegills. It is surprising how far a 9-inch fish can bend an 8-foot flyrod. Flyrods work best for fishing shallow waters. Try one when fishing among spawning beds in spring or along the edges of weed beds later in the season. Surface flies, poppers, or rubber-legged spiders will take fish in early morning or late evening when the fish move into shallows to feed. All lures of this type come in a myriad of colors, styles and sizes. A tapered leader, common for trout fishing, is unnecessary for bluegill. A 6-foot length of 2 or 4 pound monofilament is sufficient leader material. Present the lure into an area where fish are feeding and make the bait imitate an injured or struggling insect.
Flyrods can also be used to catch mid-summer bluegill when thay are in deep water. Best success occurs with a sinking line. If you do not have one, try placing a small split shot several feet in front of the fly or weighting the lure by wrapping a small amount of lead wire about the body. Cast over the area you with to cover, allowing the lure to sink to 10 or 15 feet; retrieve slowly, and set the hook the instant you feel the slightest tap or hesitation. Sometimes it is beneficial to count the fly down until you locate the right depth.
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*Mayhew, J. (editor). 1987. Iowa Fish and Fishing. Iowa Department of Natural Resources, Des Moines, Iowa. 323 pp.
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